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发表于 2015-1-11 09:06:08 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
Lisa Markwell is the editor of The Independent on Sunday. She was previously executive editor of The Independent, i and The Independent on Sunday and has edited the features pages, and both the Saturday and Sunday supplements. She writes comment pieces for the papers and restaurant reviews for the New Review. Lisa has worked across a variety of newspapers and magazines and can now tick off every publication cycle from daily to quarterly. She is an enthusiastic foodie, mother of two teenagers and drives an electric car. She is writing a book about adoption.
Lisa One dish I love so much that I kept gazing at my photograph of it while I was away in India is the pan con tomate from Barrafina. Toast, with smashed up tomato on top   what's so special about that? Well, dear reader, it's all in the details. The thick, chewy, charred bread, anointed with garlic and with the very best rich, red variety of tom liberally applied, topped with lashings of salt and a liberal slosh of very good olive oil. Drooling yet? You should be. Worth queuing for.
Amol For years I've heard about Alex Rushmer's exploits at the Hole in the Wall in Cambridgeshire: partly as we were contemporaries at university (though never met); partly because of the dish he cooked as a MasterChef finalist four years ago. And sure enough, his two slices of duck with pickled cucumber, spiced caramel and rosti is divine. The duck, a translucent pink, is juicy and tender. The cucumber's acidity cuts through; and the hot,kate spade purses bags, sticky, crunchy caramel couldn't work better alongside.
Simple pleasureLisa (Con)fusion may come and go   and Kurobuta's Japanese junk food can definitely stick around IMHO   but there's little finer than a simple crab, chilli and garlic linguine at Caf Murano, Angela Hartnett's diffusion line place in Piccadilly. Like the rich risottos also on the menu, this dish is the full package of elegant, delicious and comforting. This restaurant is probably the place I've recommended most in 2014.
Amol Swede Mikael Jonsson believes that in cooking, simplicity trumps complexity. And at Hedone, his newly Michelin starred restaurant in Chiswick, west London, his best recipe is testimony to that: a now notorious Cevennes onion   that is, a sweet one from southern France with its own appellation   poached with pear shavings and sage. Stripped right back and free of excess seasoning, it's delicious.
Best roomLisa I've asked Mr M about this because, as my usual reviewing date, he has to sit in the less well appointed seat. His vote goes to Spring, the new place in Somerset House from former Petersham Nurseries chef Skye Gyngell. With his back to the room, he might have felt fed up,air jordan shoes 2015, but a perfectly placed mirror on the wall meant he could watch the room without rubber necking, and he thought the lighting and dcor very pretty. I'd add that Soho's Bob Bob Ricard, though not new, still has the funnest atmosphere,thanksgiving coach sale, and Wyatt Jones in Broadstairs made an uneven, long, narrow room buzz with life.
Amol Chris Corbin and Jeremy King struck gold twice in the capital this year. Their Colony Grill Room at the Beaumont Hotel was an instant hit, but I prefer Fischer's on Marylebone Road, a microcosm of Mitteleurop in its pre Great War heyday. The staff wear khaki green waistcoats and olive ties; mustard colour tiling creates a warm, classy vibe; a glass roof allows in great shafts of light; and a vast octagonal clock suggests this could be a railway terminus in Vienna 101 years ago. Every last detail is congruent with the elegant whole.
The best and worst restaurants of 2014
Best ServiceLisa Jon Spiteri is the man I most want to see on entering a restaurant. As a matre d', he's the master,cheap michael kors outlet online, so I'm sad he's no longer at Holborn Dining Room,kate spade diaper, the restaurant in the shiny new Rosewood hotel in, well,coach sale, Holborn (sorry, midtown); I hope he's back in action soon. The staff at the new Barrafina in Adelaide Street, in London's Covent Garden, deserve an award both for wrangling the huge demand for seats, and for upselling their amazing specials so elegantly   the bill might be bigger but the pleasure is greater too.
Amol This year I had two experiences of sitting near open plan kitchens, which I found utterly engrossing. One was unbearable; the other filled me with reverence and awe. At the first,all jordan shoes online, a central London Italian joint, I saw a team of four young blokes being bullied awfully. As a result, I lost my appetite. But at Menu Gordon Jones in Bath, I saw the man who gives his name to the restaurant command a tiny, young kitchen with panache,cheap michael kors bags, huge energy and technical brilliance. It made my wife and I feel as though we were in the presence of a very special talent.
Concept failureLisa The pitch black loos at Old Tom English get a dishonourable mention for being appallingly dark, and Caf Royal seems to believe people like eating in an atrium. But the place I couldn't bring myself even to think about going to was Dinner in the Sky,discount kate spade bags, which hovered over London's Canary Wharf this autumn. Where the smell of fear becomes the taste of it. (And unlike Amol, below, I adored Beast's bonkersness.)
Amol Beast in W1 lays it on thick. Head downstairs and you're confronted with king crabs flailing away inside their water tanks, a glamorous glass prison. Then you are forced, if there are just two of you, to sit side by side at massive tables. Waiters busily explain that you're meant to be in the reincarnation of a medieval banquet. Next you're handed a bib, in anticipation of meaty juices from a giant steak selected by the chef for weight, according to the size of your party. The food is actually quite good, but the fussy concept could hardly be more off putting.
Big hopes for 2015Lisa It's all about the roll outs for me. We can enjoy an amazing chef in a stunning location, but day in, day out, it's what's nearby and reasonable that matters. So I look forward to Pizza Pilgrims expanding its fledgling empire   their arancini are unmissable. And MeatLiquor (home of the Dead Hippie, a very good burger indeed) adding Bristol to its London/Brighton/Leeds mini chain. Mint and Mustard? Please come east of Wales And one that is rumoured to expand in 2015 is Pint Shop, the delightful independent pub/dining room in Cambridge   yes please, guys, your Sunday lunch was one of my meals of the year.
Amol Of the most celebrated restaurants that I've never been to, I really want to try The Ledbury, Gymkhana and Simon Rogan's L'Enclume. Above all, though, I'm hoping to try those in the South West   Devon,michael kors online outlet, Cornwall, Dorset and Somerset   that I hear so much about, from Bybrook and Lucknam Park near Bath to Driftwood in Cornwall.
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